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by Rion 1980 (2018-10-26)

The materials for setup shouldn't exceed $ 25, although A bathroom can cost anywhere from $ 60 to $ 250. It's crucial that you be aware of the distance from the wall into the middle of the drain in the floor. Tips on installing a two-piece one time or low-flush bathroom are provided.

A bathroom can be installed by nearly everyone. Alright, it is not the gratifying or most glamorous job. But if you don't run in the pipe at the ground under the toilet or even a flow, you can perform the task in a couple of hours, without a great deal of expertise or plumbing skills.Read

You probably already possess most. Here is what to have available: * Tape, measure wrench * 7/16- and 1/2-in. Box-end or open-end wrenches * mini-hacksaw * entering acrylic * putty knife wax ring with collar * plumber's putty * elastic water-supply tubing * caulking gun * silicone tub/tile caulk * sponge, rags and bucket * and needless to say, a bathroom that is brand new.

You should not need to invest more than $ 15 to $ 25 for the stuff, although the thing within this endeavor is the bathroom, which may cost as little as $ 60 or over $ 250. And you are probably going to have the ability to find everything in your regional home center or hardware shop that is full size.

We are not going to talk about types of bathrooms. The actions shown apply to some bathroom--two-piece, one-piece or lowflush--provided that the floor measurements correspond to those discussed in another part, "Sizing the New Toilet." To find out more about the gaps in bathrooms, visit "What Makes a ToiletWork" (Jan. '91, p. 14).


All bathrooms aren't created equal. Before you are able to purchase a new one, then you want to be aware of the distance to the middle of the drain that beneath the bathroom from the wall. This space is often 12 in.; but some bathrooms have their drain socket centered 10 or even 14 in. From the wall. The bathrooms sold at home centers are 12 in. Other dimensions might want to be special-ordered.

One measurement will let you know exactly what size. Measure from the wall into the center of the spool cap onto the bowl's bottom (Photo 1), or into the ground bolt, which is beneath the cap. The ground bolts are aligned with the middle of the drain from the ground.

Toilets, such as the one we are replacing have four bolts on each side. Newer styles have 1 bolt each side. If your bathroom has two bolts each side, then the distance is measured from the wall into the first bolt in the wall (the rear bolt).

First, shut the water off into the restroom by shutting the water source shut-off valve. This valve is on the walls, but is onto this tank's side close to the ground. When there's no shut-off valve at the restroom, you are going to need to shut off the water in which it enters the home. This valve is located close to the water meter.

Flush the toilet when the water is shut off and hold down the handle until the majority of the water is emptied from tank and the toilet bowl. Sponge out any residual water to prevent a watery mess once you eliminate the old bathroom.

Disconnect the water supply tubing in the shut-off valve utilizing an adjustable wrench (Photo 1). You're likely going to be operating in a restricted place, so be patient. You might end up making plumbing repairs, such as replacing the valve if you are not.

The bathroom is fastened to the ground from the bolts on all sides of the bowl. These bolts are stored in slots around the closet flange -- the drain bit which goes in place. Fig. A shows the positioning of floor bolts and this closet flange.

To take out the bathroom, you have to remove the nuts which are on the bolts (Photo 2). The flooring bolts (those closest the wall) are fastened in the closet flange slots. Front bolts, if you've got some, will be cupboard screws machine threads on one end for your nut and wood-screw threads on the opposite end. The finish that was wood-screw is screwed into the wood subfloor.

Eliminate, also. They won't be used by you .

You might realize that even the nuts will not budge. If it occurs, cut the nut and bolt off using a mini-hacksaw (Photo 3). You will want to obtain a new set, however they cost just a few bucks.

Now lift the old bathroom from this closet flange (Photo 4). Grab the bathroom in the rear of the bowl, only in the front of the tank. This region gives when raised an adequate grip and the bathroom will be balanced. Lift correctly. Bend at the knees. Toilets are hefty (80 to 85 pounds).

The older bathroom probably has a wax ring or plumber's putty between it and the closet flange to maintain the bathroom from leaking. When you eliminate the old bathroom, a number of those wax ring or putty will stay on the flange. Use a putty knife to remove it (Photo 5).

Make sure you stuff a rag from the pit at the closet flange to prevent sewer gas and block the wax or gear from falling to the drain. But take care to not push the rag to the drain too much--it might fall in the drain and then plug in it.

Assess the floor area round the cabinet flange for indications of leakage as soon as you've eliminated the bathroom. If the flooring is soaked or poorly stained, the timber subfloor could be rotted. Should you suspect a Issue, see "Repairing Rotted Floors" (July/Aug. ' 91, p. 60).

Before you place the new bathroom bowl on your closet flange, then you have to put in a new wax ring. The ideal sort of wax ring is just one with an elongated collar, since it is intended to fit in the closet flange opening and then guide the flushed water to the closet flange and drain.

Set the wax ring above the "horn"--the Up round the opening--around the base of the new bathroom(Photo 6). Push down slightly, just enough to chair the ring onto the bathroom.

Turn the bowl vertical and place it on the ground bolts and on the closet flange. Pack a few plumber's putty around the ground bolts to keep them erect. (Do not forget to take out the rag from the closet flange opening. !) Place one hand in the rear of the bowl and then a single hand in the bowl below the rim, as shown in Photo 7. Holding this manner provides you great equilibrium and allows you to find the holes to the flooring bolts. But be cautious: If you've got a bad back, this activity might damage it, so get a helper.

When the bowl set up above the ground bolts, push and then rock back and onto the whole top edge of the bowl to chair the bowl and then wax ring onto the closet flange. If needed, sit the bowl to get enough pressure to find the bowl to rest securely on the ground. Do not attempt to pull on down on the bowl by tightening the ground bolts to touch the ground. The foundation'll crack and destroy the toilet.

To fasten the bowl put in flooring bolt nuts and the washers and hand-tighten. Now, tighten the nuts gently. Alternate tightening from side to side to maintain a light pressure. You are going to crack the bowl if you do not and you are going to need to purchase a different bathroom-Read more information.

The tank usually will come with each the inner components (fill valve, flush valve, flapper ball, etc.) installed. About the only thing you need to do is fasten the tank into the bowl.

The container bolts, nuts and washers do precisely exactly what you expect: The bolts fasten the tank into the bowl, while the washers (two plastic along with 2 rubber) and nuts seal the holes to the bolts at the base of the tank (Photo 8).

Put the tank into place on the bowl (Photo 9). Guarantee that the tank bolts are beside the location and the washer fits to the opening on the rear of the cap of the bowl. Fig. B indicates tank bolts and the washer in place.

The tank is then fastened by installing two plastic nuts (supplied) from the bottom of the tank bolts. Tighten each side not tighter, and to prevent cracking the tank. Check to be certain flat on the bowl sits.

Connect the water supply tube that is new into the bathroom along with the valve. We recommend having a flexible distribution tube since it's easy to flex and you likely won't have to reduce it to match (Photo 10). Supply tubes are available in a variety of lengths.

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